Sunday, September 25, 2011
FURTHER ALONG NINGALOO REEF AT CORAL BAY
Our mail had arrived, thanks to Sally, and the piece to replace part of awning broken in gusty winds at Cape Keraudren, thanks to sister Chris and John, at last some protection from the sun, - time to make tracks after filling up with 'good' water at the Visitors Centre in town.
Heading along the Minilya/Exmouth Road, the landscape is very low growing, boring and featureless except for termite mounds "African Tribal Villages". Turning right onto Maude's Landing Road to beautiful Coral Bay.
The Bayview carapark offered 2 sites at a reasonable $32per night, close to the the road, level and we looked over some very green and pleasant lawn on each side. After lunch we explored the beautiful beaches ringed once again by Ningaloo Reef and at 3.30 viewed the fish being fed, they were table size, but as it was a sanctuary they knew they were safe - darn it !
That evening Irish Outback Paddy performed on one of the green lawns and people came with their chairs to be entertained, he was right opposite our caravan so we heard it all in home comfort.
The next day as the winds were less strong we inflated our canoe and carried it down to the beach and had a lovely paddle for a couple of hours as those fish swam around us, people snorkeled and others boarded boats and headed out to the reef on sightseeing tours. Planning to paddle again after lunch was stymied by the rising wind, which is a feature of this part of our trip.
I explored the carapark and its surrounds, the blurbs say 196 people live in Coral Bay and a great many of them would be employed in it's flourishing tourist industry.
Whilst attempting to deflate our canoe a neighbouring caravanner 'BUGGSIE' offered to help, when we told him how much we enjoyed the music he had been playing he offered to download it to our external hardrive - it turned out be be some 2000 tracks - should keep us happily entertained on the road for some time.
Heading along the Minilya/Exmouth Road, the landscape is very low growing, boring and featureless except for termite mounds "African Tribal Villages". Turning right onto Maude's Landing Road to beautiful Coral Bay.
The Bayview carapark offered 2 sites at a reasonable $32per night, close to the the road, level and we looked over some very green and pleasant lawn on each side. After lunch we explored the beautiful beaches ringed once again by Ningaloo Reef and at 3.30 viewed the fish being fed, they were table size, but as it was a sanctuary they knew they were safe - darn it !
That evening Irish Outback Paddy performed on one of the green lawns and people came with their chairs to be entertained, he was right opposite our caravan so we heard it all in home comfort.
The next day as the winds were less strong we inflated our canoe and carried it down to the beach and had a lovely paddle for a couple of hours as those fish swam around us, people snorkeled and others boarded boats and headed out to the reef on sightseeing tours. Planning to paddle again after lunch was stymied by the rising wind, which is a feature of this part of our trip.
I explored the carapark and its surrounds, the blurbs say 196 people live in Coral Bay and a great many of them would be employed in it's flourishing tourist industry.
Whilst attempting to deflate our canoe a neighbouring caravanner 'BUGGSIE' offered to help, when we told him how much we enjoyed the music he had been playing he offered to download it to our external hardrive - it turned out be be some 2000 tracks - should keep us happily entertained on the road for some time.
EXMOUTH
Feeling much better after my cleaning frenzies and as we had explored the area reasonably well we set off further down the coast overnighting at a free camp by the roadside, with lots of other people.
Then along the West Coast Highway turning off to go up to Exmouth, at first we stayed at Yardie Creek Homestead, but for the fee they did not offer much, so for a similar amount we moved to Ningaloo Lighthouse Carapark and paid for 7 nights for the price of 6 -much closer to town and the many beaches.
Our first excursion was up the hill to the now disused lighthouse where there was a Parasailer Cruising around, then raising our eyes to the Oceon there were whales happily 'cavorting', what a great introduction.
We have water and power connected now, but the water tastes salty, and leaves a residue on everything, there is a tank from which to draw our drinking water, which we pass through our filtering jug.
There are lots of beautiful beaches along this coast so over the next few days we visited the different ones noting their various characteristics. The boys have spent various amounts of time fishing - without any luck. I think they are finding it hard to get back their enthusiasm now, they tried all sorts of venues, off beach, rocks and jetties, there is lots of small bait fish, but little worth eating. We were told by some Park Rangers that nowdays there are so many people going out to the ocean in boats that the stocks are very depeted, that feels very true.
Anyway there was still lots of beautiful sights one of which was a beach covered in georgeous pebbles, and the beautiful turquose sea beyond, where a pod of dolphins chased a school of fish into the beach. We viewed the monument to the Z Force team and the MV Krait who attacked Japanese shipping in Singapore Harbour, during World War 2. Spent lots of time looking out from the end of the Cape Range at the waters crashing over Ningaloo Reef where the whales spent so much time frolicing. We were visited in the Carapark by Emu, Wallaby and a bunch of crows spent lots of time on a rail just over from where we werecamped.
Then along the West Coast Highway turning off to go up to Exmouth, at first we stayed at Yardie Creek Homestead, but for the fee they did not offer much, so for a similar amount we moved to Ningaloo Lighthouse Carapark and paid for 7 nights for the price of 6 -much closer to town and the many beaches.
Our first excursion was up the hill to the now disused lighthouse where there was a Parasailer Cruising around, then raising our eyes to the Oceon there were whales happily 'cavorting', what a great introduction.
We have water and power connected now, but the water tastes salty, and leaves a residue on everything, there is a tank from which to draw our drinking water, which we pass through our filtering jug.
There are lots of beautiful beaches along this coast so over the next few days we visited the different ones noting their various characteristics. The boys have spent various amounts of time fishing - without any luck. I think they are finding it hard to get back their enthusiasm now, they tried all sorts of venues, off beach, rocks and jetties, there is lots of small bait fish, but little worth eating. We were told by some Park Rangers that nowdays there are so many people going out to the ocean in boats that the stocks are very depeted, that feels very true.
Anyway there was still lots of beautiful sights one of which was a beach covered in georgeous pebbles, and the beautiful turquose sea beyond, where a pod of dolphins chased a school of fish into the beach. We viewed the monument to the Z Force team and the MV Krait who attacked Japanese shipping in Singapore Harbour, during World War 2. Spent lots of time looking out from the end of the Cape Range at the waters crashing over Ningaloo Reef where the whales spent so much time frolicing. We were visited in the Carapark by Emu, Wallaby and a bunch of crows spent lots of time on a rail just over from where we werecamped.
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
KARRATHA & DAMPIER
From the comfort of our concreted cara/park at Point Samson we journeyed the 50 or so klms to check out Karratha and Dampier. Along the way we continued to be passed either way by huge trucks sometimes with 3 or 4 bogeys behind.
Each town had that dusty/hot highly industrialised look we had seen before and as they were on the coast they each had a port and the huge tankers were there loading whatever had been produced, dug up etc. A lot of the houses were in the modern style in these growing townships as a lot of projects in this state are still evolving and expanding. We saw those famous names BHP Biliton - Rio Tinto etc. on billboards and front gates and wondered why we did not have shares in these obviously mega companies.
Salt was another thing produced that I was not aware of, great hills of it after being in settling ponds.
All around as we drove along the highways were hills composed of boulders of red and black rocks just waiting to be mined ? Actually the mine sites were off the main roads, but there were lots and lots of vehicles which belonged to them and they made up the bulk of the traffic on the roads.
We also observed long, long trains carrying iron ore, in hundreds of bulk freight carriages pulled by up to 5 or 6 engines.
Each town had that dusty/hot highly industrialised look we had seen before and as they were on the coast they each had a port and the huge tankers were there loading whatever had been produced, dug up etc. A lot of the houses were in the modern style in these growing townships as a lot of projects in this state are still evolving and expanding. We saw those famous names BHP Biliton - Rio Tinto etc. on billboards and front gates and wondered why we did not have shares in these obviously mega companies.
Salt was another thing produced that I was not aware of, great hills of it after being in settling ponds.
All around as we drove along the highways were hills composed of boulders of red and black rocks just waiting to be mined ? Actually the mine sites were off the main roads, but there were lots and lots of vehicles which belonged to them and they made up the bulk of the traffic on the roads.
We also observed long, long trains carrying iron ore, in hundreds of bulk freight carriages pulled by up to 5 or 6 engines.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
INTO THE PILBARA
The dinner was home cooked pumpkin soup, roast beef and veg, canned fruit and ice cream - served by the station-house family, and we sat with our new friends Kath and Geoff as the sun set, under the stars and in the balmy evening air.
The concert was an education - the performers were Aboriginal - an elder fellow and a young one introduced as Billy Joe, playing guitars and singing, normally a 4 piece band with a drummer - but he was hungover from celebrating his 18th birthday.
Whilst the music was competent, we were all intrigued by how well the elder spoke - not in pidgeon aboriginal but just like any fellow of his agegroup - the music was not structured and a lot of the time they just jammed, which was charming - did not hammer you on the head. Then they were joined by a German Tourist - Andy who accompanied with his didgeridoo, very well, then one of the campers joined in on his didgeridoo, also competently and finally the young fellow with his modest didj. (thats what the elder called it - not flashly painted and slightly crooked) oh-boy his sound was fantastic.
Under the stars in the balmy evening air, the audience were encouraged to dance and join in - all in all a very different and worthwhile experience.
Along the Great Northern Highway we moved on the next morning to Cape Keraudren, a National Park managed by the Pilbara Shire Council, once again on a small cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean.
Although there was no power or water, there was a well appointed drop style toilet a dump point and rubbish removal and the price reflected these things. Once again the boys fished - for no reward -and we strolled around the area, taking photos etc.
Wednesday morning amid very high winds we finished packing and travelled via Port Hedland Information centre. The general assessment was that it was not a pleasant place to camp - moved to South Hedland - did some shopping and continued on the Great Northern Highway visiting Roebourne Information Centre and headed toward the coast and Point Samson.
The cara/park was very well appointed, clean, concrete underfoot and tiled amenities, well tended lawn areas, (reflected in the price) and minimal dust. The next morning yours truly set to with washing - not just clothes but all the 7 mats, doona cover & inner, there is still much, much more cleaning to be done, but at least the things which come in touch with our skin are clean and I feel the better for that.
The concert was an education - the performers were Aboriginal - an elder fellow and a young one introduced as Billy Joe, playing guitars and singing, normally a 4 piece band with a drummer - but he was hungover from celebrating his 18th birthday.
Whilst the music was competent, we were all intrigued by how well the elder spoke - not in pidgeon aboriginal but just like any fellow of his agegroup - the music was not structured and a lot of the time they just jammed, which was charming - did not hammer you on the head. Then they were joined by a German Tourist - Andy who accompanied with his didgeridoo, very well, then one of the campers joined in on his didgeridoo, also competently and finally the young fellow with his modest didj. (thats what the elder called it - not flashly painted and slightly crooked) oh-boy his sound was fantastic.
Under the stars in the balmy evening air, the audience were encouraged to dance and join in - all in all a very different and worthwhile experience.
Along the Great Northern Highway we moved on the next morning to Cape Keraudren, a National Park managed by the Pilbara Shire Council, once again on a small cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean.
Although there was no power or water, there was a well appointed drop style toilet a dump point and rubbish removal and the price reflected these things. Once again the boys fished - for no reward -and we strolled around the area, taking photos etc.
Wednesday morning amid very high winds we finished packing and travelled via Port Hedland Information centre. The general assessment was that it was not a pleasant place to camp - moved to South Hedland - did some shopping and continued on the Great Northern Highway visiting Roebourne Information Centre and headed toward the coast and Point Samson.
The cara/park was very well appointed, clean, concrete underfoot and tiled amenities, well tended lawn areas, (reflected in the price) and minimal dust. The next morning yours truly set to with washing - not just clothes but all the 7 mats, doona cover & inner, there is still much, much more cleaning to be done, but at least the things which come in touch with our skin are clean and I feel the better for that.
Sunday, September 4, 2011
SUBLIME BARN HILL
Time here almost stands still sometimes - as we sit in the sea breeze swept annexe whilst I write this John has his chair pushed back and is softly snoring ! That is how retirement should be !
We have done all the usual things, swam, taken multiple photos, walked the loooong beaches kicking through the warm water as I go - collected shells and some beautiful pieces of the sandstone that have broken off at some time - there is a lot of jellyfish washed up on the tide, which is more moderate now, or at least back to usual.
It is a nice little community of people here - nobody lives in anyones pocket, but is there for a chat if you want - or a hand - or advice.
The temp in the van sits on 31 deg with the windows covered by the curtains and the breeze off the Indian Ocean blowing through. The humidity is sitting at 50%, so that is why I am sticky.
A couple of days ago when the heat diminished we took a hike up to the actual Barn Hill, quite a climb for my arthritic knees - but there is life in the old girl yet. Atop the Hill is an historical landmark (a cairn) left by Alexander Forrest during his expedition to the Kimberleys in 1879.
Today it is Sunday and there is a roast dinner and concert scheduled up at the communal area - $15/ head, it means we don't have to cook and as we are moving down the coast tomorrow we can pack away a lot of the cooking gear today.
I am typing this inside and we have taken down the annexe folded and packed together with a lot of the other gear - it is preferable to finish the packing up early in the morning and get off before it gets hot - conversely it also means that by the time you get to where you are going the temperature has climbed. I don't think we will have phone/internet capability at our next stop - but according to our best advice, there is fish !
We have done all the usual things, swam, taken multiple photos, walked the loooong beaches kicking through the warm water as I go - collected shells and some beautiful pieces of the sandstone that have broken off at some time - there is a lot of jellyfish washed up on the tide, which is more moderate now, or at least back to usual.
It is a nice little community of people here - nobody lives in anyones pocket, but is there for a chat if you want - or a hand - or advice.
The temp in the van sits on 31 deg with the windows covered by the curtains and the breeze off the Indian Ocean blowing through. The humidity is sitting at 50%, so that is why I am sticky.
A couple of days ago when the heat diminished we took a hike up to the actual Barn Hill, quite a climb for my arthritic knees - but there is life in the old girl yet. Atop the Hill is an historical landmark (a cairn) left by Alexander Forrest during his expedition to the Kimberleys in 1879.
Today it is Sunday and there is a roast dinner and concert scheduled up at the communal area - $15/ head, it means we don't have to cook and as we are moving down the coast tomorrow we can pack away a lot of the cooking gear today.
I am typing this inside and we have taken down the annexe folded and packed together with a lot of the other gear - it is preferable to finish the packing up early in the morning and get off before it gets hot - conversely it also means that by the time you get to where you are going the temperature has climbed. I don't think we will have phone/internet capability at our next stop - but according to our best advice, there is fish !
Friday, September 2, 2011
MOVING ON
John and I had decided to move on whilst Carolyn and Kevin waited to take their trip to the Horizontal Falls in the Seaplane.
We set off on a Sunday morning at 8a.m. farwelling our travelling companions. The trip was fairly featureless and 2 hours later we arrived at the turnoff to Barn Hill Station and commenced the 9klm trip along the red dust road - with 3 gates to be opened and closed (guess who had to step down into the dust 3 times?). I consider we were rewarded for our travels.
We were situated atop a red sandstone cliff - looking out to sea and as we arrived the whales were gambolling, tail slapping and rolling with fin in the air. We were told dolphins came along there too.
Setting up amid the red dust - the full annexe with all the vents open to catch the cool sea breezes.
We were approached by a lady opposite (Kath) with an offer of a cup of coffee, "yes please" we said and that little break in their cool windswept annexe gave us the energy to go on and set ourselves up fully.
What can I say - it is a paradise ! Even though the toilets are colourbond galvanised iron, roofless - open to the stars or sun or whatever - very, very basic. We chose not to be on a powered site they were restricted to 4 amps therefore unable to use any appliance that has an element (hairdryers, stoves, microwaves, kettles). However we have a water connection (great) and use our gas and generator and we shower in our own van.
A 6 minute walk negotiating the sandstone cliffs and volcanic rocks to the multiple beaches below, where there was a high tide yesterday of 9 metres compared with 2 metres at home, the fish still have the last laugh.
The breezes roll in from the Indian Ocean, the binoculars and the camera get a workout, and I sit here typing this up - note to self - (remember to recharge this battery tonight when the genny is going!).
There is TV reception -sort of- sometimes the atmospheric pressures turn the picture very grainy, and last night as John fiddled with the aerial we received grainy images from Indonesia - language difficulty!
We set off on a Sunday morning at 8a.m. farwelling our travelling companions. The trip was fairly featureless and 2 hours later we arrived at the turnoff to Barn Hill Station and commenced the 9klm trip along the red dust road - with 3 gates to be opened and closed (guess who had to step down into the dust 3 times?). I consider we were rewarded for our travels.
We were situated atop a red sandstone cliff - looking out to sea and as we arrived the whales were gambolling, tail slapping and rolling with fin in the air. We were told dolphins came along there too.
Setting up amid the red dust - the full annexe with all the vents open to catch the cool sea breezes.
We were approached by a lady opposite (Kath) with an offer of a cup of coffee, "yes please" we said and that little break in their cool windswept annexe gave us the energy to go on and set ourselves up fully.
What can I say - it is a paradise ! Even though the toilets are colourbond galvanised iron, roofless - open to the stars or sun or whatever - very, very basic. We chose not to be on a powered site they were restricted to 4 amps therefore unable to use any appliance that has an element (hairdryers, stoves, microwaves, kettles). However we have a water connection (great) and use our gas and generator and we shower in our own van.
A 6 minute walk negotiating the sandstone cliffs and volcanic rocks to the multiple beaches below, where there was a high tide yesterday of 9 metres compared with 2 metres at home, the fish still have the last laugh.
The breezes roll in from the Indian Ocean, the binoculars and the camera get a workout, and I sit here typing this up - note to self - (remember to recharge this battery tonight when the genny is going!).
There is TV reception -sort of- sometimes the atmospheric pressures turn the picture very grainy, and last night as John fiddled with the aerial we received grainy images from Indonesia - language difficulty!
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